Learning how to winterize an rv washing machine is one of those chores you really can't afford to skip if you live in a climate where the mercury dips below freezing. It's easy to remember the main water lines and the holding tanks, but that expensive washer tucked away in your closet or cabinet is surprisingly vulnerable. A tiny bit of leftover water in a solenoid valve or a drain pump can expand, crack the plastic, and leave you with a soggy mess—and a hefty repair bill—the moment you try to do your first load of laundry in the spring.
It doesn't matter if you have a fancy stackable set or one of those all-in-one combo units; the basic physics of freezing water remains the same. If it's in there and it freezes, something is going to break. Luckily, getting the machine ready for a long winter nap isn't actually that hard. It takes about thirty minutes and a few gallons of the "pink stuff" to make sure your appliance survives until camping season rolls around again.
Why You Can't Just Blow Out the Lines
A lot of RVers swear by the "blowout" method, where they use an air compressor to push all the water out of the pipes. While that works great for your faucets and showerhead, it's usually not enough for a washing machine. These appliances have internal pumps and traps that hold onto water by design. Air usually just whistles right past that standing water without budging it.
To really protect the machine, you need to use RV-grade antifreeze. This is the non-toxic pink stuff, not the green stuff you put in your truck. The goal is to replace every drop of fresh water inside the machine's internal plumbing with that antifreeze. It's cheap insurance compared to the cost of replacing a Splendide or Whirlpool unit.
Gathering Your Supplies
Before you start, make sure you have everything handy so you aren't running back and forth to the garage. You'll need: * Two to three gallons of RV/Marine antifreeze (the pink, non-toxic kind). * A small bucket or a towel to catch drips. * Basic tools like pliers if your hose connections are stubborn. * A helper (optional, but it makes switching cycles easier).
Make sure your grey tank is empty or at least has plenty of room, because you're going to be pumping some of that antifreeze through the machine and down into the plumbing system.
The Step-by-Step Process
The most effective way to handle how to winterize an rv washing machine involves getting the antifreeze through both the intake valves and the drain pump. Here is how you get it done without making a mess.
1. Shut Off and Disconnect
Start by turning off the water supply to the RV. If you've already drained your main system, you're ahead of the game. If not, open a faucet to relieve the pressure. You'll want to disconnect the hot and cold water inlet hoses from the back of the machine. Keep a bucket underneath them because there will definitely be some residual water sitting in those lines.
2. The Gravity Feed Method
Some people like to use the RV's internal water pump to pull antifreeze through the whole system, including the washer. That's fine, but if you want to be extra sure, you can "gravity feed" the machine.
Connect a short piece of garden hose to the intake of the washer and put the other end into a jug of pink antifreeze. Since the washer won't "suck" the liquid in on its own, you might need to elevate the jug or use the RV's pump system to push the antifreeze through the lines into the machine.
3. Run a Fill Cycle
Plug the washer in and turn it on. Set the temperature to "Warm" so that both the hot and cold solenoid valves open up. Start a wash cycle. You'll hear the machine click and start trying to draw water. Keep an eye on your antifreeze jug. As soon as you see the pink liquid entering the drum, you know the intake valves are protected. Let it run for about a minute or until you see a good pool of pink at the bottom of the drum.
4. Protect the Drain Pump and Trap
This is the part people often forget. Just because the drum has antifreeze in it doesn't mean the pump is safe. Advance the cycle to "Drain" or "Spin." You'll hear the pump kick on. It will pull that pink liquid out of the drum and push it through the internal pump housing and out through the drain hose.
Once you see pink liquid coming out of the end of the drain hose (or you hear the pump clear out), you've successfully treated the exit route. Turn the machine off.
5. Final Touches
I always like to pour an extra cup of antifreeze directly into the drum and leave it there. It keeps the seals moist and ensures that the very bottom of the pump assembly stays submerged in protection. Also, don't forget to pour a little extra down the washer's standpipe (the pipe the drain hose sits in). This protects the P-trap in your RV's plumbing that prevents sewer smells from coming back up into the living area.
Special Considerations for Combo Units
If you have an all-in-one washer-dryer combo, the process is largely the same, but they can be a bit more finicky about water levels. Some of these machines won't start a drain cycle unless they think there is enough water to warrant it. If the machine isn't pumping out, you might need to add a bit more antifreeze to the drum manually until the sensors register that it's time to drain.
Also, check your lint filter if your model has one that's accessible from the front. Water can sometimes pool in the bottom of that filter housing. Give it a quick unscrew, let any water drain out, and then tighten it back up.
What Could Go Wrong?
If you skip this process, the most common failure point is the water inlet valve. These are usually made of thin plastic. If a teaspoon of water stays in there and freezes, it'll hairline crack the housing. You won't know it happened until spring when you turn the water on and suddenly have a waterfall behind your machine.
Another issue is the "bellows" or the large rubber door seal on front-loaders. If water sits in the folds of the seal and freezes, it can actually tear the rubber or cause it to warp, leading to leaks later on. A quick wipe-down with a dry cloth before you close it up for winter is a smart move.
Springtime: De-winterizing
When the birds start chirping and you're ready to hit the road again, you'll need to reverse the process. It's much easier than the winterization part.
- Reconnect your water lines to the city water or your fresh tank.
- Run a complete wash cycle (usually a "Normal" or "Large" load) with no clothes in it.
- Use a little bit of detergent or a specialized washer cleaner tablet.
- This will flush out all the pink antifreeze.
Don't worry if the first load smells a little bit like the antifreeze; it's non-toxic and washes away completely after one or two rinses. Just make sure you see clear water in the drum before you throw in your favorite white t-shirts.
Final Thoughts
It feels like a lot of work when you're already busy winterizing the rest of the rig, but knowing how to winterize an rv washing machine properly is the difference between a smooth spring start and a literal dampener on your first trip. It's one of those "set it and forget it" tasks. Once that pink liquid is through the system, you can rest easy knowing that even a "polar vortex" won't ruin your laundry setup.
Take your time, watch for the pink stuff to move through the lines, and don't forget that P-trap. Your future self will definitely thank you when you're parked at a beautiful campsite in April with a clean basket of laundry and zero leaks to worry about.